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Mollie
Katzen's Sunlight Cafe
by Mollie
Katzen
Published
by Hyperion
302 pages,
2002




In
Mollie Katzen's Sunlight Cafe, the author and
illustrator of the classic Moosewood Cookbook (one
of the top ten best-selling cookbooks of all time), The
Enchanted Broccoli Forest and Vegetable Heaven
now presents a beautifully-illustrated collection of over
350 surprising recipes for breakfast.
Mollie
Katzen's Sunlight Café shows you how to prepare
meatless and protein-rich breakfasts of all kinds. Whether
you're faced with a sit-down brunch for ten or just want an
on-the-go breakfast treat for one, Mollie will have the
perfect (and healthful) choice for you. Sunlight
Café has sections on yogurt and cheeses, pancakes
and waffles, muffins and biscuits, eggs and tofu, coffee
cakes and protein bars, puddings and flans -- and much more.
In addition to showing you exactly how to make the perfect
omelet or the crispiest waffle, Mollie offers mouthwatering
recipes for plum-studded morning cake; raspberry-drenched
rhubarb; crispy southwest polenta hash; winter frittata with
red onions, red potatoes, ruby chard, and goat cheese, honey
maple breakfast flan; and gingerbread pancakes. Also
included are wonderful recipes for quick and easy morning
treats -- basmati almond muffins; giant savory popovers; and
peanut butter chocolate chip oatmeal protein bars -- with
instructions on how to freeze or store them. Gracing the
pages are Katzen's luminous paintings, richly evocative of
the pleasures of cooking and eating. Mollie Katzen's
Sunlight Café will appeal to anyone who loves
cooking, and wants to feel energized in the morning and stay
focused throughout the day.
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The following is an excerpt from the book Mollie
Katzen's Sunlight Cafe: Over 350 Easy Recipes for
Irresistible Muffins, Glorious Omelets, Tasty Pancakes,
Homemade Protein Bars, and Other Delights to Launch and
Sustain Your Every Day by Mollie Katzen
Wild Rice with
cherries and hazelnuts
Wild rice has been a staple for the
Ojibwa, Chippewa, and Algonquin people for thousands of
years. Native Americans in the Great Lakes region still use
wild rice in just about everything: cakes, breads, omelets,
muffins, casseroles, pancakes, and so on. The dark, robust
grain (technically an aquatic grass) is complex, nutty, and
pleasantly bitter -- and richer in protein, minerals, and B
vitamins than wheat, barley, oats, or rye.
When shopping for wild rice, you might notice a light
brown "wild rice mix" as well as the more familiar dark
variety. This paddy-grown grain is not the same thing as
authentic Native American wild rice. It is lighter in color
and milder in flavor-and cooks in less time and with less
water If you make this recipe with "wild rice mix," cook it
as you would any long-grain brown rice.
- Dried cranberries can be substituted for the
cherries.
- Hazelnuts are also known as filberts.
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YIELD: 3 or 4 servings
PREPARATION TIME: 1 1/4 hours (2 minutes of
work)
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1 cup wild rice
21/2 cups water
1/4 teaspoon salt
Brown sugar or pure maple syrup
1/2 cup dried cherries
1/2 cup chopped hazelnuts,lightly toasted
Milk, soy milk, or cream
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- Place the wild rice, water, and salt in a
medium-sized saucepan and bring to a boil over
medium heat. When it reaches a boil, cover the
pot, and lower the heat to a bare simmer. Cook
for 1 1/4 hours, or until all the water is
absorbed and the rice is tender and has
"butterflied," or burst open. (If the grain has
become tender but there is still water left,
drain it off.)
- Remove from the heat, and stir in the sugar
or maple syrup and the cherries.
- Serve hot, topped with chopped hazelnuts and
the milk of your choice.
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PRECIOUS WILD RICE
Why is wild rice so expensive? Amazingly, about 20
percent of the world's crop is still hand-picked by Native
Americans in canoes,who retain exclusive harvesting rights
on the reservations along the shores of the Great Lakes. The
crop is an important part of the tribes' economy.
After it is cut, the precious grain is sun-dried, then
hulled through an agitation process in a steel drum. This
labor of love has been virtually unchanged throughout the
centuries, and to this day, true heirloom wild rice grows
solely in the northern Great Lakes region. When buying wild
rice, look for a 'hand-harvested" or "lake-harvested"
insignia on the package, which verifies the original
organic, foraged variety. By purchasing authentic wild rice,
you will be supporting both the economic system of the
Native American harvesters (enabling them to produce more)
and the crop itself, which is ecologically fragile.
***
Pumpkin Muffins
You don't need to wait for autumn to
celebrate the spirit of the harvest. Create your own holiday
season any time of year with these golden
muffins.
For a touch of texture, and to give more of an intriguing
bitter edge to the muffins, coarsely chop the orange rather
than grating it. The easiest way to do this is to shave off
the outermost peel with a vegetable peeler and then to chop
the shavings into smaller pieces with a sharp knife.
- The range of sugar allows you to make these sweeter
or not, according to your taste.
- Cooked sweet potato or winter squash can be
substituted for the pumpkin.
- For protein powder and whole wheat flour options, see
page 68.
- Canola oil can be substituted for some or all of the
butter.
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YIELD: 8 to 10 muffins
PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes, plus 20 to 25 minutes
to bake
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Nonstick spray
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt (rounded measure)
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon allspice
3 to 4 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 tablespoon chopped orange zest
1/3 cup (packed) dark brown sugar
1 cup mashed pumpkin
1 large egg
1/2 cup milk
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter,
melted
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- Preheat the oven to 400ƒF. Lightly spray 8
standard (2 1/2-inch-diameter) muffin cups with
nonstick spray.
- Combine the flour, salt, baking powder,
spices, granulated sugar and orange zest in a
medium-sized bowl. Crumble in the brown sugar
and mix with a fork or your fingers until
thoroughly blended.
- Measure the pumpkin into a second
medium-sized bowl. Add the egg, milk, and
vanilla, and beat with a fork or a whisk until
smooth.
- Slowly pour this mixture, along with the
melted butter, into the dry ingredients. Using a
spoon or a rubber spatula, stir from the bottom
of the bowl until the dry ingredients are all
moistened. Don't overmix; a few lumps are
okay.
- Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin
cups. For smaller muffins, fill the cups about
four-fifths full. For larger muffins, fill them
up to the top. If you have extra batter, spray
one or two additional muffin cups with non-stick
spray and fill with the remaining batter.
- Bake in the middle of the oven for 20 to 25
minutes, or until lightly browned on top and a
toothpick inserted into the center comes out
clean. Remove the pan from the oven, then remove
the muffins from the pan and place them on a
rack to cool. Wait at least 30 minutes before
serving
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***
Greek Scramble
A bright green quartet of fresh herbs
(mint, scallions, parsley, and oregano) teams up with
freshly cooked spinach to infuse scrambled eggs with
Mediterranean soul. Laced throughout with crumbled
feta--which is as much a seasoning as it is a cheese--this
dish needs no salt. Just grind in a generous amount of black
pepper and you're good to go.
I like to serve this dish with thin slices of freshly
toasted sourdough walnut bread.
- A mini-food processor makes short work of mincing the
herbs.
- If you can't find fresh oregano, substitute 1/2
teaspoon dried oregano.
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YIELD: 4 servings
PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes
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6 to 8 large eggs
3 tablespoons minced fresh mint
1 tablespoon minced flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano
2 tablespoons minced scallion
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cups (packed) spinach
1 cup crumbled feta
1 cup diced ripe tomatoes or halved cherry
tomatoes
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- Break the eggs into a medium-sized bowl and
beat with a whisk until smooth. Stir in the
herbs and scallion, and grind in a good, amount
of black pepper.
- Place a 10-inch skillet or sauté pan
over medium heat. After several minutes, add the
olive oil, wait about 10 seconds, then swirl to
coat the pan. Turn the heat up to medium-high,
add the spinach, and sauté for 2 to 3
minutes, or until the spinach has wilted and
turned a deep green.
- With the heat still at medium-high, pour the
eggs into the pan, scrambling them slowly As the
eggs begin to set, push the curds from the
bottom to one side, allowing uncooked egg to
flow into contact with the pan. The spinach will
blend into the eggs.
- When the eggs are mostly set but still
slightly wet, sprinkle in the crumbled feta.
Continue scrambling slowly, allowing the cheese
to melt slightly into the eggs. After about a
minute, stir in the tomatoes.
- Cook for just a few seconds longer, or until
the eggs are done to your liking. Serve right
away.
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***
Gruyére Quiche
with golden onion and red
pepper
- You can prepare the sautéed vegetables (steps
1 and 2) up to several days ahead.
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1 tablespoon olive oil
3 cups sliced onion
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon dried sage
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 unbaked Quiche Crust
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 cup thinly sliced red bell pepper
1 cup (packed) grated gruyere
3 large eggs
1 cup milk
Freshly ground black pepper
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- Place a medium-sized skillet over medium
heat and wait about 2 minutes. Add the oil and
swirl to coat the pan. Add the onion,
sauté for 5 minutes, and then add the
salt, herbs, and mustard. Cover the pan, lower
the heat, and cook for 15 minutes, stirring
occasionally. (During this time, preheat the
oven to 375ƒF, and place the unbaked crust on a
baking tray.)
- Stir the vinegar and bell pepper into the
onions, turn the heat up to medium, and cook,
uncovered, for another 5 minutes. Remove from
heat.
- Sprinkle the cheese into the crust, then
spoon the onion-pepper mixture on top of the
cheese.
- Whisk together the eggs, milk, and black
pepper to taste, and slowly pour this over the
vegetables and cheese.
- Bake on the baking tray in the lower third
of the oven for 35 to 40 minutes or until the
custard is set. Cool for at least 10 minutes
before slicing, and serve at any
temperature.
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***
American Potato Cutlets
For an unusual skillet breakfast, serve
these mashed potato cakes with Fried Green Tomatoes (page
169). The timing is good, because you can prepare the
tomatoes first and then let them cool while you fry the
potato cakes. (The tomatoes need time to cool
anyway.)
- Why russets? Because they are a dry, meaty variety
that mashes well. Other, waxier types can turn gluey when
mashed.
- You can use leftover mashed potatoes for this. If
they've been salted, adjust the amount of salt
accordingly.
- If you're cooking the potatoes just for this recipe,
use 1 pound. Peel them, cut them into chunks, and boil
until soft. Drain very well, and mash until smooth.
- You can make and coat the patties up to a day in
advance, storing them on a plate, tightly covered with
plastic wrap, in the refrigerator. Dredge them again in
bread crumbs just before frying.
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YIELD: About 4 servings (2 patties
each)
PREPARATION TIME: 30 minutes
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1 1/2 cups cooked, mashed russet potatoes
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons minced fresh dill
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 cup finely minced scallion
1 hard-boiled egg, minced or grated
3/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1 large egg, beaten
1/3 to 1/2 cup fine bread crumbs
2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil
A little butter (optional)
OPTIONAL TOPPINGS
Sour cream or Chipotle Cream (page
256)
Fire-Roasted Pepper Salsa (page 254)
Smoky Tomato Salsa (page 253)
Caramelized Onion and Lemon Marmalade (page
258)
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- Place the mashed potatoes in a medium-sized
bowl. Add the mustard, dill, garlic, scallion,
hard-boiled egg, salt, and pepper. Mix until
everything is thoroughly blended.
- Break the egg onto a dinner plate, and beat
it with a fork until smooth. Place the bread
crumbs on another plate.
- Use your hands (wet them if you like, for
easier handling) to form the mixture into 3-inch
patties, using about 1/4 cup for each.
- Carefully dip both sides of each patty in
egg and dredge them lightly in the bread crumbs
to coat on all sides.
- Place a 10-inch skillet over medium heat.
After a minute or two, add the olive oil, wait
for about 10 seconds, then swirl to coat the
pan. If you like, you can also melt in some
butter.
- When the pan is hot enough to sizzle a bread
crumb, fry the cutlets about 5 minutes on each
side, or until golden and crisp. Remove the
cutlets from the pan, and transfer them to a
wire rack over a tray to cool. (This retains
their crispy texture.)
- Serve hot or warm, with any of the suggested
toppings.
VARIATION: BROCCOLI-POTATO CUTLETS
Follow the main recipe with these adjustments.
Add to the potato mixture:
- 1 1/2 cups finely minced broccoli
(florets and peeled stems)
For a touch of color, replace the scallion
with:
- 1/2 cup finely minced red onion
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***
Fried Green Tomatoes
Tart, crunchy, and dripping with juice,
fried green tomatoes are rarely considered a breakfast food.
But picture a few slices -- coated with golden cornmeal --
on the plate next to your scrambled eggs or tofu, and I
think you'll reconsider. They're also a perfect partner for
American Potato Cutlets (page 152) and among my favorite
quiche fillings (page 139).
Serve these warm, not hot, as the insides of the tomatoes
retain a lot of heat and could burn your mouth.
- The tomatoes don't have to literally be green, as
long as they're unripe and really hard. They soften up so
much during the cooking process that if they're at all
ripe to begin with, you'll have mush when you're
done.
- Use a metal spatula for turning the tomatoes, and
scrape the surface of the pan when you lift them. This
ensures that you won't accidentally separate the cornmeal
coating from the tomato.
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YIELD: 2 to 3 servings (2 to 3 thick slices
per serving)
PREPARATION TIME: 5 minutes, plus 20 minutes to
cook
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2 large unripe tomatoes (about 1
pound)
1/3 cup cornmeal or polenta (rounded
measure)
1/4 teaspoon salt
Nonstick spray and a little butter for the
pan
OPTIONAL TOPPINGS
Coarse salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Chipotle Cream (page 256)
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- Core the tomatoes, and thinly slice off the
ends. Cut the tomatoes into half- inch-thick
slices (you'll get about 3 or 4 slices per
tomato) and set aside.
- Combine the cornmeal and salt on a dinner
plate. Mix until uniformly blended.
- Dredge the tomato slices in the cornmeal
mixture, pressing it into the cut surfaces of
the tomatoes to create a thick coating.
- Place a large skillet or sauté pan
over medium heat for several minutes. Spray the
hot pan with nonstick spray, and melt in a
little butter. After a few seconds, tilt the pan
to distribute the butter, then add the coated
tomatoes.
- Fry the tomatoes on each side for 8 to 10
minutes, or until crisp and golden. You might
need to add a little more butter at some point
to keep them from sticking.
- Remove the tomatoes from the pan, and
transfer them to a wire rack over a tray to
cool. (This retains their crispy texture.) Wait
at least 5 minutes before serving, as the
insides of the tomatoes will have become very
hot and will need to cool down a little.
- Serve warm, and pass some coarse salt, a
pepper mill, and if you like, some Chipotle
Cream to spoon on top.
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VARIATION: FRIED GREEN TOMATOES
WITH MELTED
CHEDDAR
Follow the main recipe with this adjustment.
Preheat the broiler. Place the fried tomatoes in a baking
dish and sprinkle with:
- 1/2 cup (packed) grated sharp cheddar
Broil just long enough to melt the cheese. Serve right
away.
***
Polenta Waffles
with berries
An extra benefit from making these
delicious waffles is that the berries emit an amazing aroma
when they hit the hot waffle iron. It will fill your kitchen
with the best of breakfast smells! I use polenta instead of
regular cornmeal for these waffles because its coarse grind
gives them a slightly crunchy texture.
You can use any kind of berry--and frozen ones work
beautifully--so you can have these any time of year. I like
to use a mixture of different types. You can buy an
unsweetened frozen berry mix in most supermarkets. Don't
defrost them before adding them to the batter, but do cut
larger berries into smaller pieces. (You can do this while
they are still frozen.)
- To keep the waffles warm, transfer them to a rack on
a baking tray, and place the tray in a 200ƒF oven until
serving time. (The rack keeps them crisp.)
- Canola oil can be substituted for some or all of the
butter.
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YIELD: 4 servings (8 standard waffles, or 4
Belgian waffles)
PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes
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1 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 cup polenta
1/4 teaspoon salt (rounded measure)
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 tablespoon sugar
3 large eggs
1 1/2 cups milk
4 tablespoons (half a stick) unsalted butter,
melted
2 cups berries (any kind)
Nonstick spray
Butter for the waffle iron
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- Preheat the waffle iron.
- Combine the dry ingredients in a
medium-sized bowl.
- Break the eggs into a second medium-sized
bowl and beat with a whisk until frothy. Drizzle
in the milk.
- Add the egg-milk mixture to the dry
ingredients, along with the melted butter and
the berries. Mix with decisive strokes from the
bottom of the bowl until all the dry ingredients
have been moistened. Try not to over-mix, and
also try to avoid breaking the berries. You'll
break some anyway, but just do your best.
- Lightly spray the hot waffle iron on both
the top and bottom surfaces with nonstick spray,
and rub on a little butter. (This is most easily
accomplished by generously buttering a chunk of
bread and using it as an edible utensil to
butter the waffle iron.) Add just enough batter
to cover the cooking surface--approximately 1/2
cup for a standard waffle (1 cup for a Belgian
waffle).
- Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, depending on your
waffle iron. Don't overbake-- you want it crisp
and brown but not too dark. It's okay to
peek.
- Serve hot with your chosen toppings.
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***
Breaded Sautéed Goat Cheese
Patties
Crisp on the outside and creamy on the
inside, these patties are a luxurious treat. Eat them plain
or accompanied by little toasts and some vegetables and
olives. They also fit perfectly on an English muffin or
tucked inside a cooked portobello mushroom. (See page 176
for the "Mushroom Treatment.")
- You can make these ahead of time and store them in an
airtight wrapper or container in the refrigerator for up
to a week. They reheat very quickly (about 20 seconds on
High) in a microwave. You can also keep the patties warm
in a 300ƒF oven just after cooking them.
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YIELD: About 4 servings (2 patties each);
easily multiplied
PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes
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1 cup soft goat cheese
1/4 cup fine bread crumbs
Freshly ground black pepper
1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil
OPTIONAL ACCOMPANIMENTS
English muffins or little toasts
Olives
Thinly sliced radishes
Thinly sliced cucumber
Tiny cherry tomatoes
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- Place about 2 tablespoons of the cheese on a
piece of plastic wrap. Cover with another piece
of plastic wrap, and gently pat and "massage"
the cheese into a patty 2 inches in diameter and
3/4 inch thick. (You can also skip the plastic
wrap, and just use your hands. Dampen them
first, so the cheese won't stick.) Repeat with
the rest of the cheese. You should have 8
patties.
- Place the bread crumbs on a plate, grind in
some fresh black pepper, and stir to mix. Press
the cheese patties into the crumbs until coated
on both sides and around the edges.
- Place a heavy, nonstick skillet over medium
heat for about 2 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon of
olive oil, wait about 30 seconds, then swirl to
coat the pan. When the skillet is very hot, add
the coated cheese patties and sauté for 2
to 3 minutes on each side, or until golden
brown, adding more oil if necessary. When they
are done to your liking, transfer the
sautéed patties to a plate lined with a
double thickness of paper towels.
- Serve hot or very warm, sprinkled with more
freshly ground black pepper,along with your
choice of accompaniments.
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***
Homemade Protein Bars
Making your own granola bars is much
easier than you may think, and it's really fun. These
homemade bars are very economical, and you get to select all
the ingredients according to your own standards, needs, and
taste. Try adding some or all of the protein boosters that
follow the recipe. You may never make these the same way
twice.
- For nondairy bars, replace the yogurt with
unsweetened applesauce, canned pumpkin, or mashed banana
(Or try the silken tofu option in the Protein Boosters
box.) Add an extra pinch of salt if using pumpkin or
silken tofu.
- The range of sugar allows you to make these bars
sweeter or not, according to your taste.
- For information about protein powder, see page
xv.
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YIELD: About 20 medium-sized bars
PREPARATION TIME: 10 minutes, plus at least 30
minutes to bake
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Nonstick spray
1 cup soy protein powder
1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 cups rolled oats
1/2 cup oat bran
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 to 2/3 cup (packed) brown sugar
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips
1 1/2 cups plain or vanilla yogurt
1/4 cup canola oil
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
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- Preheat the oven to 350'F (325'F for a glass
pan). Lightly spray a 9- by 13- inch baking pan
and a baking tray with nonstick spray.
- Mix together the protein powder, flour,
oats, oat bran, cinnamon, and salt in a large
bowl. Crumble in the brown sugar, rubbing it
with your fingers to break up any clumps. Stir
in the chocolate chips.
- Measure the yogurt, oil, and vanilla into a
second bowl, stirring until well combined. Add
the wet mixture to the dry, and mix patiently
until thoroughly blended. (You may have to use
your hands--it will be a thick batter, verging
on a dough.)
- Transfer the mixture to the prepared pan,
patting it evenly into place with your hands.
Bake in the center of the oven for 15 minutes,
then remove from the oven and cut into bars of
any size or shape. Place the bars on the
prepared baking tray and bake for another 15
minutes, or until golden around the edges. (For
extra-crunchy bars, turn off the oven and leave
them in there for up to 45 minutes longer.)
Remove the bars from the oven, and place them on
a rack to cool.
- Eat the bars within a few hours, or seal
them in a heavy zip-style plastic bag and store
in the freezer. For maximum crispness, "refresh"
them in a toaster oven after defrosting.
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VARIATIONS: PROTEIN BOOSTERS
You can make the main recipe with any combination of the
following adjustments:
- Replace the canola oil with 1/2 cup peanut butter or
almond butter (softened in a microwave).
- Replace the flour with quinoa, ground to a powder in
a blender or an electric spice grinder.
- Replace the yogurt with mashed silken tofu (soft or
firm). Add an extra pinch of salt.
- Add 2 to 3 tablespoons powdered egg whites (see page
187).
- Add up to 1 cup chopped nuts and/or sunflower seeds.
| November 2002
Copyright © 2002 Tante Malka, Inc. All rights
reserved.
Mollie
Katzen, with nearly 5 million books in print, is listed
by the New York Times as one of the best-selling
cookbook authors of all time. Recently named by
Health magazine as one of the five "Women Who Changed
the Way We Eat," and a charter member of the Harvard School
of Public Health Nutrition Roundtable and the new Natural
Health Hall of Fame, Ms. Katzen is largely credited with
moving healthful vegetarian food from the "fringe" to the
center of American dinner plates. She is best-known as the
author/illustrator of the groundbreaking classic,
Moosewood Cookbook. You can learn more about her at
www.molliekatzen.com.
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